Eater Today is a daily newsletter about dining by and for people with good taste. I’m Bettina Makalintal, a senior reporter at Eater and the lead writer of this newsletter, though you’ll also find cameos from other members of the Eater team. I’m based in New York City but report on food culture nationwide, and with the help of my colleagues across the country, I’ll keep you posted on the latest trends and shifts in dining culture at large, whether it’s the global rise of salt bread or British food’s modern redemption arc.

 Here’s what to expect: 

• Fresh dispatches in your inbox every weekday, with dining recommendations and observations from across the country, and the meals our highly opinionated editors can’t stop thinking about. 
• Trend explainers, like why restaurant owners are suddenly so focused on chicken-centric concepts and why others are going all in on the “nostalgic tavern” aesthetic. 
• Interviews with food-world legends like Alice Waters and Padma Lakshmi.  
• And every Friday, a round-up of the biggest food news — and why it matters. 

Stick with us so you can have some talking points for your next dinner party or assume the role of table captain at the natural wine bar with small plates (every friend group needs one, after all).

Just enter your email address, or click here, if you can’t see the sign-up form above.

By subscribing, you are agreeing to receive the selected newsletter from Eater, as well as occasional messages from sponsors and/or partners of Eater.

Eater Today is a daily newsletter about dining by and for people with good taste. I’m Bettina Makalintal, a senior reporter at Eater and the lead writer of this newsletter, though you’ll also find cameos from other members of the Eater team. I’m based in New York City but report on food culture nationwide, and with the help of my colleagues across the country, I’ll keep you posted on the latest trends and shifts in dining culture at large, whether it’s the global rise of salt bread or British food’s modern redemption arc.

 Here’s what to expect: 

• Fresh dispatches in your inbox every weekday, with dining recommendations and observations from across the country, and the meals our highly opinionated editors can’t stop thinking about. 
• Trend explainers, like why restaurant owners are suddenly so focused on chicken-centric concepts and why others are going all in on the “nostalgic tavern” aesthetic. 
• Interviews with food-world legends like Alice Waters and Padma Lakshmi.  
• And every Friday, a round-up of the biggest food news — and why it matters. 

Stick with us so you can have some talking points for your next dinner party or assume the role of table captain at the natural wine bar with small plates (every friend group needs one, after all).

Just enter your email address, or click here, if you can’t see the sign-up form above.

By subscribing, you are agreeing to receive the selected newsletter from Eater, as well as occasional messages from sponsors and/or partners of Eater.

Fish and chips is a once-a-week special at the Ojai, California, restaurant Rory’s Place. The nostalgic dish — which the owners, siblings Maeve and Rory McAuliffe, grew up eating during family trips to Cape Cod — is served only on Wednesdays. Rory’s Place is also laser-focused on sustainability, serving fresh local produce, seafood, and meat, and giving back to the local farmland by composting and donating scraps.

Head chef Maeve McAuliffe breaks down massive fresh halibut, sustainably sourced from the nearby Ventura coastline, for the weekly fish and chips special. The carcass of the fish is saved to make a fumet, fish stock laden with aromatics. A beer batter is whipped up just before service, to give the fried fish a delicate crunch, which McAuliffe calls an “effervescent pancake mix.” For the dish, two massive pieces of halibut are served on top of fresh fries, that have already gone through a two-day process of blanching before being dipped in the fryer, alongside housemade tartar sauce.

The sisters try to keep their sourcing as local as possible, working with farmers, seafood purveyors, and ranchers in the area. Every vegetable scrap is composted at nearby farms and ranches, creating a “closed loop nutrient cycle” that Maeve McAuliffe says creates healthy soil and future nutrient-dense vegetables. She showcases those fresh vegetables in a roasted cabbage dish, made by slow-roasting a huge slice of the dense vegetable in a wood-fire oven before plating it with a silky pumpkin sauce and winter herbs.

Shellfish and uni sourced from the nearby Channel Islands and Santa Barbara coast are also showcased on the menu, including three different types of oysters (they sell about 2,000 oysters each week), but the most popular dish at Rory’s Place is hanger steaks from Kansas City served with a French roasted-onion sauce, called a soubise. Even the steak scraps are given to a local rancher that will feed them to his pigs and use them in compost.

“Food can taste great and be exciting, unexpected, and delicious and be really good for you,” Maeve McAuliffe says, explaining that customers aren’t just enjoying delicious meals when they dine at Rory’s Place, but are supporting their commitment to ethical ingredients and sustainable practices.

Watch the latest episode of Experts to see how some of the most beloved dishes at Rory’s Place are prepared, including a weekly fish and chips special, charred cabbage, and hanger steak.

There are a handful of routes connecting the Bay Area and Los Angeles, each offering wildly different options in terms of natural beauty and amenities for travelers. You can spend a long day (or a leisurely weekend) winding down Highway 1, stopping along the way at a handful of charming seaside enclaves, each with its own culinary destinations. Or prioritize a quicker drive and take Interstate 5, the flat, often boring four-lane expanse that runs straight through California’s agricultural heartland. 

But with a little planning, it’s possible to eat well while traveling through the center of the state as well as on the periphery. Here’s a guide to the best stops along Highway 1 and Interstate 5, including a beachside oyster stand in Ventura, a destination for Indian food in Bakersfield, and a charming all-day cafe in the seaside enclave of Carmel.

Additional reporting by Greg Morabito.

On February 19, the night Sqirl debuted its first dinner service, owner Jessica Koslow was tossing a pot of popcorn back and forth at millennial cookware brand Our Place in Venice, an hour’s drive to the west of her Virgil Village restaurant. She was there to promote avocado oil and beef tallow brand Marianne’s, and to dole out bites of buttery beet agnolotti, which Sqirl began serving that evening as part of its new dinner menu. Was she feeling nervous? Anxious?

“I’m just tired,” she said. Then, right at 9 p.m., she rushed out to return east to her once-lauded jam company and groundbreaking Los Angeles restaurant, the place that has defined her career — and much of Los Angeles — for 15 years. 

Koslow and Sqirl have been on an incredible journey. The restaurant launched a revolution in daytime dining, popularizing trends —  tonics, vegetable-centric grain bowls, swoon-worthy brioche toast — that are now mainstays in Los Angeles. In a lengthy Eater profile from 2016, writer Marian Bull described Sqirl as “quirky, punky, small-but-scrappy,” which was apt. But Sqirl was also, for a moment, the most famous restaurant in Los Angeles, achieving greatness by reimagining familiar ingredients and putting smiles on faces with effortlessly simple dishes rooted in complex fermentation. The lines stretching out the door were infamous. 

Everyone had an opinion about Sqirl because Los Angeles’s restaurant scene revolved around it — which set up the restaurant for its fall from grace. In summer 2020, former staffers revealed mold in buckets of the brand’s iconic fruit preserves, which went viral on social media. The fiasco, later dubbed JamGate, spun into several sub-controversies over whether Koslow had mistreated staff and sufficiently credited contributors to the brand’s recipes. Sqirl’s reckoning was swift, strong, and lasting. 

Some in the restaurant industry and food media condemned and abandoned Koslow (though she was never entirely shut out of coverage), and attention shifted to other LA cafes like Great White (which had its own social media reckoning) and Hilltop Kitchen (co-owned by actress Issa Rae), among others. Sqirl mostly plugged along, continuing to serve bowls of sorrel pesto rice and plates of jam-covered ricotta brioche toast. The brunch lines eventually returned, even if not quite as long as they once were. 

Strong feelings have lingered in food circles over the last five years. The new dinner service could bring some people back around to Koslow’s particular brand of modern California cuisine. But — as some comments on Eater’s recent video about Sqirl show — others may not see a new menu as a resolution for past wrongs or reason enough to reengage. (The ethics around Sqirl are sticky, and the arguments for and against her absolution are many. You can read more about that debate in the Kang Town newsletter.)

While Sqirl’s daytime menu launched a revolution, the team is playing it safe for dinner, focusing on the same streak of top-notch ingredients — farmers-market produce, sustainably raised meats — now packaged in bistro fare. Nearly every bite manages to feel refreshingly tasty, but none of it is earth-shattering.

A hotel soap-sized bar of chicken liver covered with bright green celery butter was made to be spread on crusty grilled sourdough. An aggressively seasoned Caesar salad uses croissant pieces as croutons. The beet agnolotti balances sweet, savory, and rich with a subtle smokiness. Local black cod aged in kombu comes encircled in dill-flecked whey butter with pops of salty trout roe. Koji-cured roast chicken swims in umami-riddled bagna cauda, flanked by a punchy, slightly bitter swiss chard panzanella. 

The restaurant itself has transformed in some ways to facilitate the transition from day to night. The next-door Sqirl Away space — a huge fully licensed kitchen and retail area selling cheese, wine, and more — assists the main hot line in the small original space. In place of the daytime line of diners, a host stand takes in patrons with reservations to be seated in Sqirl’s main room. The jam jars are tucked in shelves underneath the counter, as if Koslow is burying the past (though she says the brand still produces 40,000 organic-certified jars annually).

But in other ways, the setup is still the scrappy Sqirl of old, for better or worse; counter seating and an eight-top communal table, which made Sqirl’s daytime service charming, might not have the same effect in the evenings, when diners expect a modicum of creature comforts for the roughly $120 they’re paying for dinner. 

In an opening story on Resy, Koslow explained that she always wanted to expand into dinner service, but it took the pandemic-era Restaurant Beverage Program to allow the 800-square-foot restaurant to gain a full liquor license. That license took four years, followed by more delays due to wildfires, ICE raids across the city, and staffing. 

Prior to JamGate, every publication would’ve been vying to break the news of this new dinner service. Now, Koslow’s media approach has mostly been low-key, letting the food speak for itself. Despite some negative comments on social media, it seems as if a groundswell of support may come to meet her. Former Time Out LA editor Patricia Kelly Yeo published a long look at Sqirl’s dinner on her Substack, there’s positive chatter on local forum Food Talk Central, former Rustic Canyon chef Jeremy Fox hailed it as one of the best meals he’s had “in a long time,” and Garrett Snyder of the Infatuation listed the chorizo-shrimp stuffed squids (aka Sqimps) among the best things he ate in February.

That doesn’t mean Koslow is ignoring the past. In the Resy post, she was intentional about shouting out collaborators, as if responding to past allegations, and keen Redditors have pointed out that checks at the restaurant come with a statement about prioritizing health care for staff members, cheekily adding, “because without our staff, you would’ve had no idea what lacto fermentation was.” 

After years of outsized attention on Sqirl, both good and bad, this slow restart feels like an appropriate new beginning. Nothing on the menu feels revolutionary, but it’s also not trying to be. 

Koslow and co have a knack for California cooking, and it’s foolish to underestimate her  sensibilities (and her team’s) when it comes to crafting truly amazing bites. Any Sqirl fan can recall the refreshing balance of cold ricotta, sweet summery jam, and buttered toast that launched the restaurant into the stratosphere. Sqirl’s dinner menu may or may not propel the restaurant back into the national conversation, but beet agnolotti feels like a solid first step.

Hong Kong feels like many cities rolled into one. In a single weekend, you can wander among skyscrapers, hike lush trails, and relax on a beach. Visitors can glimpse the city’s colonial past in revitalized architecture, and see how new structures lend a futuristic vibe to rapidly developing thoroughfares. Combining the flourishing economy of London or Tokyo, the cultural heights of New York or Paris, and the best of East and West, Hong Kong constantly surprises travelers. 

In terms of food, curry fish balls, pineapple buns, and egg tarts come together into a melting pot that showcases flavors from every culture that has touched the city. Take one turn and you may find a new bakery selling innovative pastries. Take another to find a small eatery serving snake soup. A third turn might take you to a street full of modern cafes offering locally roasted coffee beans, or a historic dim sum spot, or a bustling night market, or — it goes on and on. Especially in the food scene but all over the city too, Hong Kong overdelivers. 

Before you go

When to visit: In fall and winter (September to April), the weather is dry and breezy. Those seasons also include some of the city’s biggest festivities: Mid-Autumn Festival, Christmas, China’s National Day, and Chinese New Year, the latter two celebrated with large-scale fireworks on the harbor. 

Where to stay: Accommodation rates vary across the city, and higher-end, five-star hotels can be especially competitive. Hotels in Kowloon and on the harbor-front are great for tourists who want panoramic views of the skyline. 

Getting around: Hong Kong has a rich subway network and well-connected buses (best utilized with a preloaded Octopus Card), so rental cars are largely unnecessary for getting around the area. Bring cash (Hong Kong dollars) for small, independent businesses, though contact-free payment systems like Apple Pay and Alipay are becoming more common. 

Day 1: Island old and new

8 a.m. Dim sum breakfast: Get an early-morning start in the Central district at Luk Yu Tea House. Built in 1933, the three-story restaurant has maintained its colonial-era charm even as the neighborhood has developed around it. The space is full of vintage wood furnishings and traditional art and ink calligraphy. Besides conventional har gow (steamed shrimp dumplings) and steamed buns filled with barbecued pork, the rotating menu excels in dim sum items that are fading from other spots, like variations in shu mai filled with beef, pork, pig liver, mushroom, quail egg, or other ingredients. 

10 a.m. Stroll through history: Head up to the Soho district to walk off breakfast along Hollywood Road, passing Tai Kwun and PMQ, former police complexes revitalized into hubs for local retail and dining. Follow the road’s rich tapestry of old and new buildings until you reach Man Mo Temple, a Taoist temple dedicated to Chinese folk gods. Then pop over to Chu Wing Kee, a neighborhood domestic goods store now in its second generation, where the iconic red plastic piggy bank is a bestseller. And browse the mixture of cured sausages, dried mushrooms, and luxurious treats like abalone, fish maw, and sea cucumber on the Dried Seafood Street in Sheung Wan, an old neighborhood known for its marketplace of Chinese medicinal herbs. 

12:30 p.m. Grab a scenic ride: Hop on the tram (aka the Ding Ding) eastward to North Point. Settle upstairs for a tour as the tram passes through the Central business district and Victoria Park. Hop off at Chun Yeung Street Wet Market to check out the seasonal produce, before heading to Tak Hing Loong Tofu Shop, a family-run shop that’s been making soy milk and tofu products with a stone mill for over six decades. Go for the tofu pudding, and top it with yellow sugar — just remember, for many locals, “not so sweet” is the highest compliment one can give a dessert. 

2 p.m. Courtside lunch: Head over to the members-only South China Sports Association in Causeway Bay. Next to the bowling alley, you’ll find Kamcentre Roast Goose, a public restaurant specializing in Chinese barbecue. Start with the watercress soup (almost as thick as French veloute), followed by the glossy, mahogany pipa goose: a spatchcocked bird slathered with five-spice marinade, roasted, and presented on a stand like a Chinese pipa, a guitar-like instrument. Also consider the thick-cut barbecued pork, which is charred, unctuous, and great with steamed rice.

4:30 p.m. Scenic hilltop walk: Head to the Peak Terminus for a ride on the Peak Tram up to Victoria Peak to stroll round the 2-mile Peak Circle Walk. After you’re done with your obligatory pictures of the view, stop by Bakehouse, a popular local bakery chain, for a taste of the signature sourdough egg tart or a savory baked good, and Halfway Coffee, another local cafe chain, where you can try drinks made with local ingredients like the longan honey latte. 

8:30 p.m. Sizzling rice pot: As the city lights up, head back to Sheung Wan for a taste of Hong Kong’s clay pot rice at Kwan Kee. This neighborhood shop opens daily at 5:30 p.m., but queues form an hour earlier, even for folks with reservations. There’s usually less of a wait for the second seating. The rice, made a la minute and decorated with a myriad of toppings, comes in several variations: The pork patty with salted fish and the chicken with shiitake mushrooms are favorites. 

10 p.m. Cocktail bar hopping: At night, Hong Kong’s world-famous cocktail scene comes alive, especially in the Soho district. Start at Gokan, co-founded by renowned mixologist Shingo Gokan, with a Watermelon Koffeezz, a take on a gin fizz with clarified watermelon juice and coffee from Japan’s Koffee Mameya. Next grab a zesty daiquiri, arguably the best in town, from Sugar King, a small bodega-style rum bar operated by American bar veteran John Nugent and partner Angel Chiu. Then pop over to Bar Leone, a legendary institution ranked No. 1 on the World’s 50 Best Bars list, for Lorenzo Antinori and Justin Shun Wah’s humorous takes on Italian flavors, like an olive oil sour, paired with the iconic mortadella sandwich and signature smoked olives. Finish with a flight of agave at three-time Asia’s 50 Best Bars winner Coa, headed by veteran mixologist Jay Khan. 

Day 2: Kowloon and beyond

8 a.m. Village breakfast: Start your second day at Duen Kee, a classic dim sum restaurant in the village of Chuen Long, where locals grow patches of watercress up the green slopes of Tai Mo Shan, Hong Kong’s tallest peak. Morning hikers and local uncles frequent the restaurant, where customers choose from a self-serve array of teas and baskets of dim sum. Find a spot to sit on the second floor with a view of the greenery. 

10:30 a.m. Mochi time: Head south to Tsuen Wan to visit Man Fung Noodle Shop — not for noodles, but mochi. The glutinous rice treats are filled generously with a selection of black sesame, peanut, desiccated coconut, and trendy options like pistachio. 

11 a.m. Moment of zen: Cross to the Diamond Hill neighborhood to visit the Chi Lin Nunnery and the adjacent Nan Lian Garden, which offer a one-two combo of architectural wonder and zen vibes in a hideaway surrounded by residential high-rise buildings. 

1 p.m. Homey lunch: Check out Chong Fat Chiu Chow Restaurant, where fresh, seasonal Teochew fare is on display in the open kitchen, including steamed flower crab served cold, goose braised in spicy marinade, tiny mussels stir-fried with basil, and pan-fried chive dumplings. 

3 p.m. Stock up on food souvenirs: Take a short walk over to Walled City Park, which features remnants of a range of historical buildings from the area. After a quick stroll, shop your way through the adjacent market district, home to large Teochew and Thai communities. Chinese tea lovers will love Ming Heung Tea Shop, a shophouse that sells loose Tieguanyin (a variety of oolong) toasted over traditional charcoal pits. Kwai Yue Zai offers boxes of Teochew sweets, ranging from festival favorites such as ultra-flaky mooncakes to soft, chewy peanut fudge. Goodies originally sold dried seafood when it opened in 2007, but has since expanded to small-batch Chinese condiments and other local pantry staples; the shop stocks a great selection of nibbles, including Chinese dried prunes and candied citrus peels. For a slightly more substantial snack, try Islam Food, a halal restaurant cooking up the city’s juiciest beef patty, tinged with cumin. 

5:30 p.m. Quintessential dai pai dong: Dinner from a street vendor is a must for first-time visitors to Hong Kong. Oi Man Sang expanded from a standalone stall into a dine-in space along the quiet streets of Sham Shui Po. The kitchen brings theatrics to every meal with fiery Cantonese stir-fries that are ready within minutes, sometimes even seconds of your order, at the hot wok stations outside of the restaurant. Deep-fried squid with pepper salt is a good way to start, while the stir-fried beef with potato cubes and sweet and sour pork are must-haves. Sit by the blazing stove with a cold beer and watch chefs at work. 

9 p.m. Night market: After dinner, pop down to the Temple Street night market to stroll among the street food stalls selling simmering beef offal, steamed shu mai (fish or pork dumplings), and clay pot rice. You can squeeze in one last savory bite for the day, or try the Cantonese desserts at Kai Kai Dessert, the Michelin-recommended dessert shop specializing in sweet soups such as sweet potato and ginger or sweet walnut puree. 

Day 3: Gourmet city

8 a.m. Super fast-casual breakfast: Start your third day not far from where the second ended, with breakfast at Australian Dairy Company, a cha chaan teng known for speedy breakfasts of scrambled eggs, omelette sandwiches, and milk tea. Service moves fast, so read the menu while waiting in line and be ready with your order once you’re seated.

9 a.m. Visit the landmarks: Tsim Sha Tsui includes many of the city’s heavy hitters in terms of sights. Spend the morning touring your pick of Kowloon Park, the Xiqu Centre (home of Cantonese opera), the Clock Tower, the 1881 Heritage mall, the Cultural Centre, and the Hong Kong Museum of Art. 

12 p.m. Peking duck: The Regent Hong Kong is home to one of the city’s most celebrated restaurants: two-Michelin-starred Lai Ching Heen. Nestled along the harbor, the restaurant serves up Cantonese dim sum, including golden stuffed crab and wok-fried wagyu with cauliflower and mushrooms. But it’s the Peking duck, carved tableside, that stops the show every time. The restaurant also offers tea service with artisanal brews and tea pairings for the food menu. 

3 p.m. Souvenirs for cooks: Shanghai Street is where many restaurants source their equipment, making it an ideal spot to stock up on bamboo cutting boards, glassware, and handcrafted cleavers at purveyors like Chan Chi Kee Cutlery Company. Try lifestyle goods store Hak Dei for locally manufactured Camel brand thermoses, thick-rimmed milk tea cups, and traditional blue-and-white porcelain bowls.

4:30 p.m. Fresh snack: Not far from Chan Chi Kee, you’ll find the Yau Ma Tei wholesale fruit market, where suppliers import and distribute fruit all over the city. Visitors can also purchase fresh fruits from around the world — like seasonal Japanese strawberries, Indian Alphonso mangoes, Chinese lychees, and Mediterranean stone fruits — from a few vendors in the area. Then head back to your hotel to freshen up before dinner. 

6 p.m. A grand finale: Just across the harbor, in the Central district, two of the city’s hardest to book restaurants live in the same building, offering a choose-your-own adventure to end your weekend. One is the Chairman, where owner Danny Yip and head chef Kwok Keung Tung deliver a polished set menu pulling from the tried-and-true Cantonese repertoire. Meals notably feature a fantastic steamed flower crab with aged Shaoxing wine and chicken fat. The restaurant requires booking months ahead, but a table is almost certainly worth changing your travel itinerary for. 
The other restaurant is Wing, where chef-owner Vicky Cheng applies French culinary training to seasonal, contemporary Chinese cuisine. Notable dishes include the fragrant chile Alaskan king crab with crispy cheung fun (rice noodles) and the signature crispy sea cucumber spring roll with green onions. Meals can run close to three hours, but every minute is worth it. A post-dinner ferry ride across the harbor is the ideal way to end your stay in Hong Kong.

Starting this spring, Eater and Capital One are hosting exclusive, one-night-only dinners at the year’s most anticipated new restaurants in New York City, Chicago, and Washington, D.C. The events take Eater’s insider access — you’ll hear about the most exciting restaurants across the country from us before anyone else — and bring it to life in a buzzy-yet-intimate event for Capital One cardholders. 

Dinner Party will kick off in Chicago on April 23 for a night at The Radicle, a Midwest-meets-Italian concept from the team behind Daisies. Further into the season, we’ll gather in New York City on May 14 at Dean’s, the buzzy British seafood spot from the King crew. On June 18,  we’ll head to Washington, D.C. for an evening at Rye Bunny, which marks the return of the Tail Up Goat gang. 

And it’s not just parties: Get a behind-the-scenes look leading up to each opening night in Eater’s new video series, Now Open, presented by Capital One. And subscribers to Eater and Punch’s industry newsletter, Pre Shift, will get access to exclusive interviews with the names behind these new openings.

As for the events: Seats are limited. Learn more here. 

Terms Apply. See link for more details.

Munich often makes lists of the “most livable cities,” combining an innovative, international energy with a slower, greener, and, at times, quintessentially Bavarian lifestyle. The foothills of the Alps are just an hour away, the peaks visible from different points in town, and Munich has long been a powerhouse of music, theater, and art thanks to the influence of former monarchs and dukes.  

All of those things also make Munich an excellent place to visit, especially if you’re ready to immerse yourself in the local way of life. Wander the grand boulevards, explore the parks, marvel at the Italianate architecture, and gawk at historic landmarks such as the National Theatre and Germany’s largest urban palace, home to a treasury full of old royal regalia. 

But of course, you’re here to eat. The quickly evolving culinary scene includes everything from historic taverns serving roasted pork soaked in dark beer sauce to chic contemporary bistros serving modern small plates with butter from the Bavarian Forest. After three days in the city, you’ll be considering relocating permanently.

Before you go                        

Areas to stay: All the central neighborhoods, such as Schwabing, Haidhausen, Maxvorstadt, and Isarvorstadt, have a broad selection of hotels and plenty of restaurants, cafes, and shops to choose from. 

When to visit: There isn’t really a bad time to visit Munich, but many locals decamp for the nearby ski slopes in the later winter months. There’s a substantial influx of visitors every year during Oktoberfest too.  

Getting around: Munich has a reliable public transport system, with trams, trains, and buses connecting most places within the inner city. Cycling is also a practical option with well-marked bike lanes throughout town.

Day 1: Downtown Munich

8 a.m. Classic coffee: Kick things off with a flat white and a cinnamon-loaded Franzbrötchen from Munich roaster Man Versus Machine on Müllerstraße, one of the first independent shops to bring specialty coffee to the Bavarian capital. The insulated bottles and enamel cups featuring the brand’s illustrated crocodile logo are some of the best souvenirs in town.

9 a.m. Greek breakfast: Stroll over to Crete-inspired Café Onos, where the clean white and vibrant blue interior immediately transports you to a Greek island. Order the avocado toast with crumbly feta or a warm sesame ring filled with cream cheese and honey, along with a refreshing foamed-topped frappe. Owner Manolis Kyriakakis’s family produces the shop’s thyme honey and olive oil in their home village. Both are available to buy along with a small collection of ceramics, coffee beans, and some irresistible cookbooks.

10:30 a.m. Urban art: Not far away is the Museum of Urban and Contemporary Art, located in a former substation. Since bursting onto the scene in 2016, the space has showcased diverse international names, from Brooklyn-born Alex Katz to Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. Most exhibitions can be found in the main building, but the connected Kunstbunker, found in an old air-raid shelter next door, recently had Banksy’s shredded “Girl without Balloon” on display. Fine dining restaurant Mural is also located in the museum.

12:30 p.m. An alpine-inspired lunch: Eat at Weinhaus Neuner, Munich’s oldest wine bar, which plays the part with moody dark wood paneling, cast-iron lamps, and a restored cross-vaulted ceiling. Start with the smoked eel with potato and lamb’s lettuce salad, followed by the braised veal cheeks with Bohemian dumplings or the veal schnitzel with crispy pan-fried potatoes and cranberry-horseradish sauce. Of course, ask about the wines.

2 p.m. Old town: Walk off lunch by venturing into Munich’s old town, passing the famous Frauenkirche, whose domed towers are a symbol of the city; central square Marienplatz, home to the neo-Gothic town hall; and the expansive Residenz, the former seat of Bavarian dukes and kings. Drop into newly opened comic book store Splendid Comics right on the square, or admire the wooden kitchen utensils and hand-carved chess boards at Holz-Leute, a business that dates back to 1873. End at open-air food market Viktualienmarkt for a grapefruit-infused kombucha from First 8 Kombucha or a caffeine hit from third-wave coffee shop Sweet Spot. Need some midafternoon dessert? Try the sticky vanilla and rum-soaked canelé or a slice of flambeed cheesecake from micro-patisserie Marktpatisserie Lea Zapf, also in the market.

5 p.m. Downtime: Time to pop back to your hotel for a quick break and an outfit change before dinner.

7 p.m. Aperitivo: Spend your evening in the fashionable Glockenbach quarter, home to many of the city’s most happening bars and restaurants. Start with a glass of Franconian rosé at Weinbar Garbo, run by the duo behind hugely successful Austrian restaurant Gasthaus Waltz. The impressive wine collection showcases several German and Austrian producers such as Rosi Schuster, Eva Fricke, and Simon Haag; pair your choice with simple savory snacks like Viennese ham with horseradish and pickles.

8 p.m. Wine and dine: Reserve a table at understated Avin for a concise menu of sharing plates paired with wines selected by sommelier Lukas Stepper. The menu changes regularly, but recent highlights include pointed cabbage with miso butter and hazelnuts, as well as pumpkin with peanut mayonnaise and buttermilk. Grab a table on the street outside or settle into the sumptuous interior where upholstered bar stools complement the warm wood features. Look out for the events organized with different wine producers.

10 p.m. Nightcap: End the night with a matcha martini or French 75 prepared by the expert staff at the new kid on the already crowded block, Herr Bartels. The easygoing bar has an elevated industrial design with soft lighting and custom illustrations — recognizable from sister businesses Frau Bartels and Madam Anna Ekke — scribbled on blackboards.  

DAY 2: Alternative Munich   

10 a.m. Late start: A traditional Bavarian breakfast is a must for anyone visiting the city and they don’t come much better than the one at Gaststätte Großmarkthalle. Hidden away in the city’s meatpacking district, this well-trodden establishment serves salty soft pretzels, smooth wheat beer, and weißwürste (white sausages) made in the cellar below the restaurant. 

12 p.m. Boat on a bridge: Next, walk over to Alte Utting, a boat repurposed as a nightclub and event space, that sits on a disused bridge. Explore everything from the deck to the engine room, and see what events are on. The Bavarian curling (eisstockschießen) rink, outfitted with an organic mulled wine stand, is a popular choice in winter. Disembark to explore the rest of this quirky part of town, known for its innovative spaces and temporary projects. At Bahnwärter Thiel, shipping containers and decommissioned train carriages host small businesses, and graffiti artists make the most of relaxed rules.

1 p.m. Coffee and sandwiches: When hunger strikes, make a detour to female-powered cafe Mari, found in an old butcher’s shop. Or go on a sandwich run to Scandi-inspired Bageri on Adlzreiterstraße, where appetizing combos are served on olive oil-soaked focaccia or fresh bread made with rye, spelt, and sunflower seeds.   

2 p.m. Geek out: Spend the afternoon at the Deutsches Museum, one of the largest science and technology museums in the world. Founded in 1903, the impressive structure, complete with a weather station, sits on a small island once used to store wood and coal. There are around 20 major exhibition departments to choose from.

5 p.m. Riverside bar: Make your way along the eastern bank of the river, stopping for a drink at cozy Boazn, tucked away in a former public restroom next to the Ludwigsbrücke bridge. Try the aromatic Gspusi wheat beer or refreshing Spatzerl shandy. 

7 p.m. Hot tables: Run by Luis Fernando Gonzalez Cortes and his business partner Niklas Petschko, Taqueria con Salsa sees regular lines, but the tangy house-made salsas, eye-watering Mexican chiles, and soft corn tortillas are well worth the wait. Then pop across the street to artisanal ice cream shop True & 12, just over the road, for peach-basil sorbet or other seasonal scoops. Alternatively, reserve a table at Franz in Sendling for an evening of French-inspired small plates and curated wines. The bread comes with different butters produced in the Bavarian Forest.  

10 p.m. Late-night drinks: Spend the remainder of your evening in Westend, a district that’s fast evolving (up-and-coming to some, gentrified to others). Options here include intimate cocktail bar Heir Beverage House, where you should sample the Tucan made with German brandy, or Wirtshaus Eder, where freshly tapped lager and dark beer comes from popular craft brewer Tilman Ludwig.

DAY 3: Neighborhood mooching 

8 a.m. Caffeinate: Suuapinga has slowly but surely expanded over the last few years, from a single location in Schwabing to shops in most of Munich’s hip neighborhoods. Start with a cappuccino at the brand’s first space on Herzogstraße, combined with a cinnamon roll or cardamom bun baked at the brand’s central bakery. Or take your coffee to go, and stop by Julius Brantner Brothandwerk on Nordendstraße for Swabiansourdough pretzels looped by hand.

10 a.m. Park life: With carbs secured, head east towards Englischer Garten, Munich’s largest park. In winter, inclines are used for sledding, and in summer, the lawns fill with volleyball nets and picnic blankets. Walk around the lake, stop in a beer garden (Biergarten am Chinesischer Turm is the easiest to reach), and check out the views from the Monopteros, a Greek-style temple commissioned by King Ludwig I. 

12:30 p.m. Laid-back lunch: Head back out of the park and into the heart of the student district Maxvorstadt for lunch. Here you’ll find eclectic bookshops, contemporary fashion stores, and plenty of places serving quick eats. Grab a table at Umi Udon and Sandos for Japanese katsu and coleslaw sandwiches served on fluffy milk bread or handmade thick-cut noodles served chilled, in broth, or in a carbonara-style dish with egg yolk, bacon, and grated Parmesan.

2 p.m. Museums: The student district is also where you’ll find a significant number of Munich’s museums, clustered together in an area known as the Kunstareal. Head to the Munich Documentation Centre for the History of National Socialism to learn more about an important chapter in the city’s history, or take in the European masterpieces at the Alte Pinakothek, where the collection of paintings spans five centuries.

5 p.m. Pre-dinner drinks: A short distance from the museums, natural wine bar Zero Dosage offers the ideal spot for a pre-dinner drink. The wine list includes a constantly changing selection of open bottles, as well as the bar’s own vermouth, made in small batches with organic herbs, spices, and fruit.

7 p.m. Final night dinner: Randale, a popular newcomer in Lehel, is a great way to experience how Munich’s food scene is evolving. Young chefs Stefan Retzer and Adrian Krieg have created a relaxed fine dining experience with five courses focused on the seasons. Recent highlights include black salsify with kimchi and apricot, and beef with radicchio trevisano and celery. It’s a perfect dinner to end your trip to this ever-surprising city.  

Athens is a city of beautiful contradictions. Michelin-starred dining rooms share sidewalk space with decades-old taverns. Modern rooftop bars overlook 2,000-year-old monuments. Everywhere you look, the past and present converge to create an unparalleled multilayered metropolis. 

Despite the city’s dexterity, travelers have long treated the Greek capital as little more than a pit stop between the airport and a ferry to the islands. But over the past few years, it’s emerged as a destination in its own right, not only for its star attraction, the Acropolis, but for the small, intimate pulses that fill everyday urban life: quiet morning coffee in a secret courtyard, the scent of bitter orange trees lining the streets, the sounds of celebration spilling from restaurant doorways. 

Athens has been a power player in Western civilization for more than 5,000 years, giving history buffs plenty to see and do around town. But right now also feels like the perfect moment to experience the dining scene at its most intimate and intoxicating.

Before you go

When to visit: Athens enjoys mild weather for much of the year, but it’s worth avoiding the peak summer months, when high temperatures close outdoor archeological sites and heavy crowds overwhelm the streets. Catch the Athens Epidavrus Festival, which takes over venues across the city from spring to fall, and look for food festivals and open-air events that fill the shoulder seasons. 

Area to stay: Consider the Psyrri neighborhood, which feels fresh and artistic, despite the ancient sites only a few minutes’ walk away. There are plenty of hotel options, like the Bellen Athens or Acropolis City Life. Look for a room on the top floor to secure a view of the Acropolis.

Getting around: There’s no need to rent a car. Walking around Athens is the best way to explore the city, and the subway system is quite handy. If you ever need a car, rely on apps, such as Uber, or private transfer service like the Greek Taxi.

Day 1: From downtown streets to sunset views

9 a.m. Coffee and breakfast: Start your first day with a leisurely stroll to Picky, home to one of the city’s most charming outdoor patios. It’s a lush space to enjoy specialty coffee, smoothies, and a generous breakfast menu of shakshuka, acai bowls, and Greek kagianas (scrambled eggs with tomato and feta). 

11:15 a.m. Shopping for stylish home souvenirs: Walk through Psyrri toward the historic, now gentrifying Plateia Anexartisias (aka Vathi Square) in search of unique souvenirs. Anthologist is the main draw for tablecloths and runners featuring traditional Greek patterns, alongside handmade ceramic plates, bowls, and water jugs that bring a distinctly Greek touch to your home. Lunch isn’t for a few hours, so head downstairs from the showroom for a snack at Zanoubia, a Syrian spot offering some of the city’s best falafel.

12 a.m. History is waiting: Just a short walk away, you’ll find the National Archaeological Museum, Athens’s largest, oldest (established 1829), and most important museum. It houses more than 11,000 exhibits spanning from prehistoric antiquity to the 4th century CE, including plenty of cooking utensils, agricultural tools, and depictions of ancient Greek daily life.

2:30 p.m. Time for lunch: Right next to the museum you’ll find To Rini, an interesting bistro where chef Marina Chrona blends tradition with modern Greek gastronomy. The minced rooster ragout and slow-cooked goat are pure comfort food, especially alongside a bottle of Greek wine.

4 p.m. Coffee and dessert to go: After lunch, stop by Portatif for a coffee and a piece of the red velvet cake. The fluffy sponge and rich cream cheese frosting will only make you want more. 

6 p.m. City views with a stunning sunset: You can summit Lycabettus, the highest hill in the center of Athens, in three ways: on foot, by cable car (from Kolonaki), or by car. At the top, you’ll find a small church dedicated to Saint Georgios and the Lycabettus Theatre, which hosts a variety of events every summer, but the real reward is the sweeping panorama view at sunset. Be warned: It’s often swarming with canoodling couples.

8:30 p.m. Seafood for dinner: Descend to the posh Kolonaki neighborhood, home to high-end boutiques and Papadakis Restaurant, where celebrity chef Argiro Barbarigou delivers the flavors of her hometown on the island of Paros. Start with the octopus with honey and fried potato chips, followed by the kakavia (fisherman’s soup) or one of the groupers (classic with lemon fricassee or modern with truffles). Papadakis is known for hosting famous customers, like Jean Paul Gaultier and Carla Bruni, so keep your eyes peeled.

11 p.m. A drink to end the day: Head back to the heart of Athens, where many bars stay open until late, and follow the voices to Baba Au Rum (No. 27 on the World’s 50 Best Bars list). Customers spill onto the street, enjoying cocktails that showcase local ingredients. Try the tsipouro-based Lost Lovers or the experimental Unapologetic Skyline featuring feta cheese — which is better than it sounds. 

Day 2: Markets, Museums and Open-Air Cinema

9 a.m. Coffee and plants: Pull up a designer chair next to a large fiddle-leaf fig or rare monstera plant at Minu, a multiconcept green space near the Thissio train station. Expect specialty coffee, turmeric lattes, and spirulina smoothies, alongside seasonal brunch items ranging from tuna tostadas to Basque cheesecake.

11 a.m. Shop the central market: Walk 10 minutes through Monastiraki Square to reach Varvakios Agora, the central food market, likely the loudest place in downtown Athens. Vendors from around the country crowd into the space, which has been the market’s home since 1886, competing for attention with shouts that echo through the aisles. Outside on Evripidou Street, you’ll find spices like boukovo (crushed red pepper flakes) and herbs like oregano and thyme from the Greek mountains — ideal souvenirs to enhance your next stew.

12 a.m. Visit an island without leaving the city: Walk up bustling Panepistimiou Street to the Museum of Cycladic Art, where you can learn about the civilizations that flourished in the Aegean Sea and Cycladic islands. See the famous marble figurines, vases, and everyday tools. Afterwards, grab some refreshment at the Cycladic Café, which is set in a beautiful indoor garden.

2 p.m. A lunch to remember: A 15-minute walk to the charming Ilisia neighborhood will deliver you to Cookoovaya, where chef Periklis Koskinas, born and raised on the island of Corfu, delivers a seafood-heavy, seasonal menu. Consider the bianco (fish cooked with potatoes in a creamy, peppery broth) or the bourdeto (fish soup, full of caramelized onions, dyed crimson by generous helpings of red pepper).

4 p.m. Explore the streets: Walk along Ermou, Athens’s main shopping street, where you’ll find a mix of buskers, international fashion brands, and everyday essentials. Look for Alexandrakis, one of the area’s oldest shops, established in 1860. Or try Aiolou Street (which intersects Ermou) for the legendary textile sellers overflowing with colorful rolls of silk, linen, and lace. Stop at Matsouka for high-quality chocolates and traditional Greek products. And hunt through the Monastiraki flea market for antique ceramics, handwoven rugs, military memorabilia, rare first editions, and vintage toys. If you need a break, the unique courtyard at TAF (the Art Foundation) is a great stop. Then head back to your hotel to freshen up.

7 p.m. Fine dining above ancient ruins: Return to Monastiraki and head to Astiggos Street, right next to the ruins of Stoa Poikile, where you’ll find Makris Athens, a Michelin-starred restaurant led by chef Petros Dimas. The menu focuses on modern Greek cuisine, and the kitchen sources fresh vegetables and herbs from Dimas’s family farm in Corinth almost daily. Choose one of the three tasting menus: the eight-course Genesis ($135), 10-course Utopia ($194), or 9-course vegan Physis ($147). Expect playful items, like mushroom soup served in a cappuccino cup, alongside entrees like lamb aged for seven days, served with wild asparagus. The glass floor in the basement reveals part of ancient Athens beneath your feet.

9 p.m. Movie under the stars: After dinner, head to Cine Thision or Cine Paris, two of the city’s most beloved open-air cinemas (open early May through late October). Both offer spectacular Acropolis views alongside movies in English or Greek (with subtitles). Grab a pack of popcorn or some nachos, order a local beer or a Greek digestif like ouzo or tsipouro, and enjoy the show.

11 p.m. Japan meets Athens: If you’re still in the mood for more, Birdman is a Tokyo-style bar and grill where you can relax to the sounds of Japanese jazz or Salsoul disco while sipping cocktails inspired by East Asia, like the signature Ume Bloody Mary. Should hunger strike, Birdman serves one of the best burgers in the city, and it’s known for skewers featuring unconventional-for-Athens cuts.

Day 3: Ancient landmarks and contemporary Athens

8 a.m. Quiet coffee below the Acropolis: Start as early as possible to have the whitewashed alleys and blooming bougainvillea of Anafiotika to yourself before the crowds arrive. Stop for a morning coffee at Anafiotika Cafe and try the traditional strapatsada with scrambled eggs, tomato, feta cheese, and herbs; or order some Greek yogurt with fresh fruit and nuts, and enjoy the rare silence.

1 p.m. A quick refreshment: Only a few minutes down the hill, Little Tree Books & Coffee is a perfect place to regroup. The small cafe and bookstore invites customers to browse the shelves for cookbooks (mostly focused on Greek cuisine) and Greek literature translated into English, while sipping a house-made lemonade.

9:30 a.m. Ancient Athens and must-see sights: Once you’re well-fueled, get in an early visit to the Acropolis Museum, and take time to explore the archaeological remains of the ancient neighborhood that stretches underneath. Then pass by the Odeon of Herodes Atticus along Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, and climb the Acropolis to make your obligatory stops at the Parthenon, Erechtheion, and other iconic monuments. Be sure to book tickets in advance.

2:30 p.m. Greek lunch with a twist: Ateno Cook & Deli reimagines Greek cuisine, not only in flavor but in presentation. Order the signature moussaka, gemista (stuffed tomato), or the “hidden” Greek salad. Pair your meal with a glass of Greek wine from the award-winning list.

4 p.m. Coffee, dessert, and a walk: Stroll through Mitropoleos Street for a quick stop at 72H, a new-age bakery popular among locals for its soft, chewy cinnamon rolls. Then head to Syntagma Square to watch the impressive changing of the presidential guards at the Greek Parliament, which takes place every hour. Then enjoy the shade beneath thousands of Washingtonia palms and eucalyptus in the National Garden. 

5:30 p.m. A quick, classic bite: You can’t leave Athens without tasting souvlaki. O Kostas is one of the last old-school spots in the city center, producing juicy skewers of pork or beef swaddled in warm pita. Join the crowd of local construction workers, suits, and students for a simple, satisfying snack, before heading back to your hotel to get ready for the evening.

7 p.m. Evening stroll by the water: Hop on the shuttle bus to visit the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center in the city’s southern suburbs. Explore the park and canal on the grounds, see the new home of the National Library and the Greek National Opera, and check out any public lectures, exhibitions, or film screenings.

8:30 p.m. Farewell dinner: Head up to the two-Michelin-starred Delta Restaurant inside the SNFCC, considered the best restaurant in Greece by La Liste. Head chef George Papazacharias presents a 12-course menu (about $280) in which dishes are rarely what they initially seem. The sea urchin, for instance, is actually a potato and squid ink shell around a filling of bottarga, sea buckthorn, and pickled rosehip. The “edible insect” for dessert — a caterpillar made of chilled chervil, served with a soft cookie flavored with preserved nobilis pine — is a memorable last bite.

11 p.m. One last nightcap: Take a taxi to Line Athens, ranked No. 8 on the World’s 50 Best Bars. Set inside one of Greece’s oldest art galleries, the bar offers signature cocktails that might blend Irish whiskey, fig, coconut whey, and spices for a light, refreshing finish to the trip.

For over 20 years, Florida chef Eric Fralick dreamed of Kinjo, his Tampa restaurant that’s billed as “itameshi wafu Italian” cuisine. Opened last August, it serves dishes such as akami “spaghettoni” — lean bluefin tuna that’s cut to resemble pasta noodles and then served with a bagna cauda cream sauce — and a take on vitello tonnato enhanced with sake and black garlic.

Living in Japan in the early 2000s, Fralick fell in love with an Italian restaurant in the city of Shizuoka, where he ate Italian food, but with Japanese influences, like pastas made with uni and the fermented soybeans known as natto. “It really reminded me of home,” says Fralick, who grew up in upstate New York and started his cooking career in Italian fine dining. Even while running the sushi restaurants Noble Rice and Koya, Fralick wanted to return to Japanese Italian, and Fralick and his wife opened Kinjo in August of 2025. 

The goal is “bringing those influences together in a creative way that doesn’t mar either cuisine,” Fralick says. His chawanmushi — Japanese steamed egg — features Parmesan broth and guanciale; his cappelletti is stuffed with ricotta, maitake mushrooms, pickled daikon radish, and balsamic vinegar. 

Across the country, there’s a growing crop of Japanese Italian restaurants, with Kinjo in Tampa; Ama and Ciaorigato in San Francisco; Miso Mozza in Providence, Rhode Island; and Itameshi in Albany, New York, all of which have opened within the past year. They join earlier examples of the genre such as LA’s Orsa & Winston, which opened in 2013; Washington, D.C.’s Tonari and New York City’s Kimika, which both debuted in 2020; and Montclair, New Jersey’s Pastaramen, which opened in 2023. 

There’s some variation in how these restaurants describe their concepts. Some call themselves “itameshi,” a Japanese term that literally means “Italian meal” but that has expanded to also refer to Japanese Italian fusion. Others opt for the term “wafu Italian,” with “wafu” an umbrella term that means “Japanese-style.” Others yet present themselves as various creative riffs on “Italian and Japanese.” All circle the same cultural collision, which has a long history in Japan and which has seen a surge of renewed interest in Tokyo in recent years. 

Though European influences began to enter Japan in the late 19th century after the country opened its ports, it was the American occupation in the post-World War II period that gave rise to dishes like the ketchup spaghetti known as Napolitan, explains Sonoko Sakai, author of Wafu Cooking. The restaurant Kabe No Ana, credited for being the birthplace of wafu pasta, opened in Tokyo in 1953 and started serving spaghetti with ingredients like mentaiko and shimeji mushrooms. With Japanese inclusions such as natto, or shiitakes sauteed in soy sauce and sake, or sprinkles of nori, the pastas were “nothing that you would find in an Italian restaurant,” Sakai says. But today, tourists in Japan queue for hours for carbonara udon, considering it a must-have. By the time Orsa & Winston opened in LA in 2013, “diners in LA were globally literate,” chef and owner Josef Centeno said via email. “Travel, media, and access to information had expanded expectations. People were less concerned with strict categories and more interested in perspective.” The balance of cuisines at Orsa & Winston felt “natural,” he said.

In the past five or six years, this kind of fusion has become increasingly familiar to diners. Tonari opened in Washington, D.C. in early 2020 with the goal of educating the city about wafu Italian food, though its space dictated the concept to an extent: It was previously an Italian restaurant with a wood-burning oven that seemed a shame to remove. “What about wafu Italian?” recalls partner Daisuke Utagawa. At the time Tonari opened, pre-pandemic, “the mentality of the customer and the restaurant scene were totally different,” Utagawa says: People were more interested in discovering new-to-them cuisines.

While Japan is known for its traditionalist approach to Neapolitan pizza — in which pizza-makers study in Italy and use only imported Italian DOP cheese and tomatoes to create pies that rival the source material — Tonari wanted to go more wafu, drawing inspiration from the slabs of pizza toast found in the retro coffee shops known as kissaten. Enter Tonari’s Detroit-style pizza. It’s made with flour imported from Hokkaido, which gives it the right amount of chew for its thick crust, and features toppings such as the requisite brick cheese alongside corn and Kewpie mayo cod-roe cream, or Cheez Whiz with soy sauce- and mirin-braised prime rib. There are pastas, too, including a take on the mentaiko spaghetti that was popularized by Kabe No Ana; they’re made with pasta noodles that are also sourced from the restaurant’s Japanese ramen manufacturer. “Our customers are people who want to try different things,” Utagawa says. It’s comfort food by virtue of the format, “but it’s in a different way,” he says.

For chef Robbie Felice, learning about the history of wafu Italian food represented a major career turning point. He’d been cooking classic Italian food, even earning a James Beard nod for his Viaggio Ristorante in Wayne, New Jersey. But he wasn’t catching the eye of traditional media to the extent he wanted. “They didn’t give a shit about me or my Italian restaurants because I was in New Jersey,” he says. The pandemic offered an opportunity to step back and find a way to “stand out and be different.” 

In 2021, Felice started hosting a series of exclusive, speakeasy-style Japanese Italian omakase dinners around the country, where he piloted dishes like cacio e pepe gyoza fritti. The series was a hit, and he eventually settled his wafu Italian concept down in Montclair, New Jersey, opening Pastaramen in 2023. Though Felice considers Montclair one of New Jersey’s more “foodie-centric” towns, it’s still a town dominated by Italian: There are literally 10 Italian restaurants within a close radius of his restaurant. 

Felice acknowledges that while he could go more “out there” if he were cooking in NYC, his approach in Montclair reflects “what [he knows] the Jersey clientele likes.” Take his shrimp scampi ramen, a menu staple. It has sake and ponzu in addition to white wine and shrimp paste to intensify the seafood flavor; though the noodles are ramen, not pasta, it’s topped with garlic breadcrumbs and fresh parsley. “To take a favorite recipe that’s on every [Italian] menu across the country and make it Japanese Italian, I knew it was going to be a home run before we even did it,” he says.

While the presence of genre-blurring Japanese Italian restaurants is perhaps unsurprising in the country’s major dining hubs, the push into smaller cities and towns offers proof of just how far Japanese food has made it, becoming as familiar to Americans as Italian food; sushi is as much universally appealing “kid food” now as a plate of spaghetti. “I think it’s the two favorite cuisines of the world,” Felice says. “Everyone knows Italian and everyone knows Japanese.”

Similarly, Itameshi opened in Albany, New York, in August as a joint venture from the owners of local Italian restaurant Pastina and Japanese restaurant Tanpopo. The concept is “definitely new for Albany,” says bar director William Hoschek. Although udon Bolognese with whipped miso-ricotta might prompt initial confusion from diners, “when people sit down to eat, it’s pretty accessible,” he says. “All the dishes are really Italian in composition, which people in Albany are no stranger to.” Some hesitance remains around less familiar dishes. The squid ink spaghetti with uni-butter sauce, for example, isn’t ordered as much as “the more blatantly Italian dishes,” Hoschek says. This novelty can have its perks, though. 

In Hoschek’s assessment, one reason consumers don’t go out as much is because they can cook well and make good cocktails at home; thus, dining out feels more special when the food isn’t as simple to replicate with store-bought ingredients. A recent survey of 1,000 U.S. consumers found that 68 percent of participants were planning to cut back on restaurant dining in 2026 due to rising costs. In this ecosystem, in which dining isn’t a constant but an occasional luxury, “having a unique concept and being more of a destination … definitely is in our favor,” Hoschek says.

Utagawa of Tonari offers a different assessment of the American dining scene today. “It’s not as exploratory,” he says. Though wafu Italian isn’t what diners expect of either Italian or Japanese food, both are individually familiar. The combination, then, can potentially hit a sweet spot of being both comforting and novel.

The tricky balance for restaurants today is presenting something new, but also being sure that people will like it. Two things are certain though: Diners love Italian, and they love Japanese. Put them together, and of course there’s an audience for that.

If you’ve ever ordered an abalone dish at a restaurant in the U.S., that pricy sea snail probably came from this farm in Santa Barbara, California. The Cultured Abalone Farm is one of only two red abalone farms that commercially grows the tender shellfish (and the other farm in Monterey, California buys seed abalone from them). “So any abalone that you eat started here,” farm manager Andie Van Horn explains. “We really want to make abalone [a] California icon again.”

The farmed abalone are fed a diet of fresh seaweed and kelp, with about 30,000 pounds of kelp being placed in each of the 450 tanks every week. Once ready to harvest, large tanks of abalone and urchin are drained to gather the mature sea snails, which are carefully pried off the walls of the tank by an experienced harvester. The delicate shellfish do not naturally produce blood clots, so one small cut could kill them.

The farm is also committed to helping with abalone conservation; wild populations have experienced a huge decline since the ’70s from overfishing and habitat loss. The Cultured Abalone Farm’s hatchery currently has five million eggs from white abalone, which are almost extinct on the California coastline. Out of those millions of microscopic eggs, a few hundred thousand will become larvae, and tens of thousands will make it to adulthood. Those abalone will take about four to six years to reach a harvesting size, slowly being moved to larger tanks at every stage.

Harvested abalone are packed into ice pack-filled boxes and are still alive when they are delivered to distributors and restaurants, staying fresh for four to five days.

Watch the latest episode of Vendors to learn more about how the California abalone farm is supplying this shellfish delicacy and helping with conservations efforts.