Al pastor fish tacos and buckets of beers at an affordable beach hideaway, cochinita pibil fusion dumplings from a famed local chef, sourdough conchas from a vet of the world’s best restaurants, and more of Tulum’s best food
Back in the early ’90s, Tulum was a sleepy pueblo on Mexico’s Riviera Maya, a day trip from a hotel in Playa del Carmen or Cancún to see the ruins and walk around downtown. But by the end of the century, Tulum was on its way to becoming a destination, first for hippies seeking yoga and meditation, then for celebrities, and then developers. International investors, hoteliers, restaurant groups from Mexico City, and chefs from all over the world followed, eventually creating a luxurious tropical playground by the sea. Today, you can throw a rock from your hotel and hit a trendy outdoor restaurant with a wood-fired oven cooking local, foraged ingredients.
But over the past couple of years, talented chefs from all over Mexico, alongside young entrepreneurs from within Mexico, have brought new specialties and regional cuisines to town. Arrivals from Mexico City, Chiapas, Guerrero, Veracruz, and nearby states like Campeche are opening street stands along Tulum Pueblo’s Avenida Kukulkan: cochinita and lechón stands from Yucatán, carnitas vendors from Michoacán, and tacos de guisados stands serving local and national Mexican recipes. Talented chefs have also begun emerging from restaurants on the peninsula like Arca and Le Chique, and a few affordable stalwarts of old Tulum have survived the area’s evolution. Cargo tricycles sell Tabascan pozol de cacao (a cold cacao drink) and stands serve dreamy glasses of agua de crema de coco (coconut cream) to keep locals and tourists cool and refreshed in the tropical heat.
Despite some affordable options, dining in Tulum is mostly expensive, and if you’re going to drop over $300 on dinner and drinks for two, you’d better make sure your meal is worth it. The best restaurants deliver all the magic, romance, and aesthetics promised by the beachside destination. They serve dishes elevated by the local flora and fauna, and cook with techniques inherited from the Maya; that often includes recaudos (colorful herbal marinades), especially grilled octopus in recaudo negro, a dish made iconic by chef José Luis Hinostroza’s Arca.
Bill Esparza is an LA-based, James Beard Award-winning food writer, author of LA Mexicano, and a featured journalist on Netflix Street Food USA.
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