The brewing method favored by Ethiopian moms makes coffee a communal activity
Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee, something locals like to tell everyone they meet. The beverage remains an important part of everyday life and a major economic driver for the country. Unlike other coffee-producing countries that export a majority of their supply, Ethiopia consumes more than half of its own production.
Much of that consumption happens at home, gathered around a jebena, a style of coffee pot from Ethiopia and Eritrea. The pot is instantly recognizable with its spherical bottom, long neck, and swooping handle, and usually comes along with a matot, a straw throne that holds it up and keeps it from burning the table, and a little lid that keeps the coffee hot as it brews. Handmade from red or black clay, the pot is seasoned over a coal fire and usually decorated with various patterns engraved or molded on its exterior, some of which may signify the region where the jebena was produced.
But there’s more to a jebena than good looks; the pot is one part in a multistep communal brewing process, often led by the matriarch of a household, that’s as much about sharing an experience with friends and family as it is about caffeine intake. It’s this ritual that makes the jebena so dear to people in Ethiopia, as well as those who have left the country, including those who have fled violent conflicts throughout the years. During the ’70s and ’80s, for instance, refugees from the Ethiopian Civil War carried jebenas and related customs around the world. As much as it remains an everyday kitchen tool, the jebena has become a cure for homesickness and a link to tradition too.
When I first moved to the U.S. in 2008, I tightly wrapped my jebena in my favorite sweater, alongside other essentials that Ethiopian mothers pack for children who set off to become students in the diaspora: berbere spice blends, stored in the freezer, that forever ruin your ice; raw honey in case you get sick; a handwoven blanket called a gabi to keep warm in winter. I knew I would need my jebena to maintain a connection to Ethiopia and its slow, communal culture of coffee consumption, a stark contrast to America’s favorite coffee chains with their disposable grab-and-go paper cups.
Why you need a jebena
There are so many high-tech ways to brew coffee these days it can make your head spin: V60, siphon, moka pots, French press, drip, espresso machines, Chemex, vacuum. Like some of these other methods, the jebena relies on great design and gravity to do the work of brewing and filtering out solids, but it doesn’t require pressure, filters, percolators, or electricity. After adding grounds and hot water to the pot, the jebena is tipped forward on its little straw stand as the coffee brews, forcing the coffee grounds to sekena, or “settle,” into the curve of the body. The method produces a flavor profile that’s full-bodied and expressive without becoming overwhelming or bitter.
The jebena isn’t for anyone in a rush. The traditional method calls for washing green coffee beans, roasting them on a flat steel pan, and pounding them with a mortar and pestle. The brewing ceremony that typically follows can last an hour or two, depending on the group. If you’re rushing to work before a meeting, get your double shot espresso. If you want your coffee brewed before you wake up, get yourself an automated dripper. But brewing with a jebena is a compelling reason to take a break from the hustle and bustle of life. It creates something special out of an otherwise mundane task.
The jebena is especially ideal for serving coffee to a group. Multiple steps in the traditional brewing ceremony are designed to encourage interaction between hosts and guests. Once the coffee beans are roasted, the host shakes them in front of each recipient to share the aroma. The participants are expected to reciprocate, fanning the smoke towards the host’s face in return and giving a gesture of approval if the smell is good. Then there is the protocol for the order in which the coffee is served, starting with the elders and working down in age (as the youngest in my family, this never bodes well for me). The same coffee grounds can be reused twice or even three times, resulting in weaker rounds of coffee as the gathering goes on. There are usually snacks to balance out the caffeine, most popularly popcorn, popped sorghum, or traditional breads like ambasha and dabo kolo.
In homes in Ethiopia and the diaspora, these coffee ceremonies occur daily, giving families and friends a chance to socialize and bond. And during the rare times it’s not in use, the jebena acts as an eye-catching centerpiece, communicating that cultural heritage.
How to use a jebena
Whether or not you wash, roast, and pound your own coffee beans, start with a medium grind. Add the coffee and cold water to the jebena; 25 grams of coffee with 150 milliliters of water is enough for a single serving, but most models can hold up to 150 grams of coffee with 900 milliliters of water to serve a group of six. Place the pot on the stove over medium heat, and let it brew until the coffee climbs up the neck of the pot (this will take less than 10 minutes; you’ll know it’s ready when you hear it rushing to the top). Just as it’s about to spill over, add a few drops of cold water to make it simmer down. Grab the pot by the handle (which remains cool) and place the jebena on its little matot, tipping it forward toward the spout and allowing gravity to take over. Place the cover on top to keep the coffee hot, and do not disturb the sekena. Once the coffee has settled, which should take about three minutes, steadily pour the coffee into small clay or porcelain cups. If anyone is interested in a second or third round, just add 150 milliliters of water for each drinker and start the brewing process again. Although methods may vary slightly, these basics are generally agreed upon.
Where to buy a jebena
Support your local Ethiopian or Eritrean mom-and-pop shops, which are likely to have some jebenas on hand. There’s also a nice selection on Etsy and eBay, as well as Ethiopian goods websites including Sheromeda. The prices range from about $20 up to $100 depending on the size and decorative intricacy.
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