Where to find creative chefs redefining French cuisine, classic brasseries and bistros enjoying a renaissance, stunning Michelin-starred meals, and more of Paris’s best food
Paris has reclaimed its status as one of the world’s favorite cities to eat. The French capital is bustling with a brilliant constellation of restaurants these days, including a bevy of openings that show off how deliciously cosmopolitan it’s become: Menkicchi is maybe the best ramen shop in town, young French Malian chef Mory Sacko cooks stunningly original dishes at Mosuke, and Korean-born chef Sukwon Yong shows off the growing influence of Asia on contemporary French cooking at the reboot of Le Bistrot Flaubert. Plus there’s an inventive and diverse array of casual dining options, like the affordable Café du Coin, excellent Montmartre bistro Le Maquis, and Parcelles, an outstanding bistrot a vins in the Marais. There’s also been a renaissance of Paris’s long-established gastronomic landscape, with traditional bistros, brasseries, and stylish restaurants serving classic French cooking made famous by chef Auguste Escoffier.
Updated, August 2023:
Though tourism in Paris is booming this year, the French are still inviolably attached to their summer vacations, so many restaurants are shutting down for a few weeks. During this slow season, remember that hotel restaurants, brasseries, and global cuisines remain your best bets.
On the edge of the holidays, the most talked about new opening in Paris is Golden Poppy, bringing California cuisine by French-born, San Francisco-based chef Dominique Crenn, which replaces the still great Restaurant Omar Dhiab. Golden Poppy is just out the gate, but its delicious, cosmopolitan dishes look like they may help to see off the entrenched French conviction that Americans mostly subsist on unhealthy junk food.
La rentrée, as the French call the fall return to work in September, is the most important time of the year in Paris for new restaurant openings. Among those most hotly anticipated are the renovated and updated La Tour d’Argent; Boubalé, Paris-based Israeli chef Assaf Granit’s new take on Ashkenazi cooking; Hémicycle, restaurateur Stéphane Manigold’s newest table; Altro Frenchie, an Italian restaurant by Gregory Marchand, the chef of the enduringly popular Frenchie; and the Brasserie des Arts, a glamorous new option for a classic French menu in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés.
We update this list quarterly to make sure it reflects the ever-changing Paris dining scene. The guide is organized by arrondissement, spiraling out from the First.
Alexander Lobrano is a Paris restaurant expert and author of Hungry for Paris, Hungry for France, and his gastronomic coming-of-age story My Place at the Table. He blogs about restaurants and writes often for the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, Saveur, and other publications.
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