From the Editor: Everything you missed in food news last week
This post originally appeared on April 18, 2020 in Amanda Kludt’s newsletter “From the Editor,” a roundup of the most vital news and stories in the food world each week. Read the archives and subscribe now.
I had a long week, and I bet you did too. So I’m just going to list a few things that are bringing me joy right now before getting to the news. It would thrill me to no end if you could email me (amanda@eater.com) to tell me what small things are bringing you joy as well.
— On the recommendation of my co-worker Britt, I ordered $50 worth of candy from Swedish candy shop Bon Bon to my house, and it is pure joy to dip into the stash whenever I need to.
— Smitten Kitchen’s marbled banana bread recipe
— The dramatic opener to the last Ibeyi album.
— These TikToks of makeup tutorials set to John Mulaney’s stand-up comedy.
— This unicorn head and streamers that my mother-in-law just sent to my son to put on his scooter.
— I just finished On Earth We’re Briefly Gorgeous, which I found to be a slog at first but then I really fell for it in the end/in this moment.
— This podcast about long haul trucking.
— I got new pillows a couple of weeks ago after I realized I have never bought a pillow in my entire adult life and I’ve been sleeping on lumpy hand-me-downs for the last 18 years.
— I have a garden, and the violets are blooming and beautiful and, weeds that they are, spreading everywhere. I hope some pretty spring thing is happening near you.
And, finally, crucially, honestly, my cabinet full of gummies, bottles of wine I keep buying from my local, The Fly, and batched margaritas supplied by my neighbor Calaca.
On Eater
Intel: President Trump chose a pretty predictable group of fast food CEOs and super high-end chefs to represent the interests of restaurants in the pandemic (and one of its members does not appreciate the criticism!); Fuku is opening a bunch of ghost kitchen operations in Portland, Miami, and Brooklyn; D.C.’s Call Your Mother opened a planned second locaion, just for takeout only; Shake Shack, Ruth’s Chris, and other large chains got their $10+ million checks while small businesses are still waiting for help from the Small Business Administration; NYC restaurant spending dropped by more than 90 percent in late march; Santa Cruz, California might start easing restrictions on public gatherings by May 4; and Houston’s Southern Smoke Foundation has now distributed over $600k to service industry workers in need.
- You know this but, yeah, the gradual reopening of restaurants will be really slow and weird.
- Chef and entrepreneur Fany Gerson on the exhausting business of staying open.
- The Move: Marie Kondo the liquor cabinet.
- The Sanity Saver: Christina Tosi’s baking club.
- How LA’s Josef Centeno is feeding LA’s hospital workers 100 enchiladas at a time.
- The upsides and the downsides of owning a large restaurant group during the pandemic.
This week on the podcast
Daniel and I talk to chef and first-time restaurateur Helen Nguyen about what it’s like to open a restaurant in a pandemic, supply meals to hospitals, get enough to-go containers to keep her business in operation, and deal with the general exhaustion of this moment. Then we talk about the biggest stories of the week.
Off Eater
- Chefs and restaurateurs are relying increasingly on the kindness of landlords to survive this. [Bloomberg]
- How America is drinking now. [Vox.com]
- BIG shoutout to photographer Gary He and all the work he’s doing out in the restaurant world right now. [NYT]
- A small business owner on the myriad ways in which the Paycheck Protection Program is failing restaurants. [The Atlantic]
- One of Chicago’s most successful restaurateurs on the experience of furloughing 1,800 people days after his mother’s death. [Esquire]
- RIP Jesus Roman Melendez, the “backbone” of Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Nougtaine. [Grub Street]
- My weekend project: baking Dorie Greenspan’s take on gougeres. [NYT Mag]
- Is it time to buy a tiny island 75 minutes from New York? Maybe yes. [Curbed]
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